In winter, when the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, the table beyond the Po Valley is filled with warm and hearty dishes. Meat becomes the undisputed protagonist of the culinary preparations, offering intense flavours and comforting dishes that help to overcome the cold days. Dishes that are even more exalted when they are prepared with mountain meats from the farms of the Alta Val di Staffora.
Varzese cow meat
The Vacca Varzese is an indigenous breed of cattle whose origins may date back to the barbarian invasions of the 6th century, when the Lombards brought the light-coloured cattle known as "fromentino" to the plains of the Po Valley. Over the centuries, the breed has adapted well to the Apennine environment, becoming rustic, frugal and long-lived.
The Varzese is an undemanding breed, able to adapt easily to environmental conditions. It is renowned for its endurance and longevity. In the past it was used as a work animal, with cows and oxen that could work for 15-20 years. Despite its modest production, the Varzese is appreciated for the quality of its meat and milk.
Ancient local fairs have played a fundamental role in the preservation and promotion of this native breed. During these events, breeders and enthusiasts met to present and compare their cattle, to buy and sell animals and to keep alive the tradition of breeding this breed.
The San Ponzo Fair in Ponte Nizza, for example, was one of the highlights: an important meeting point for breeders in the area. The event was an opportunity to exhibit and sell cattle, demonstrating the quality and characteristics of the breed.
Plenty to suit all palates
A classic flavour is braised beef. This piece of meat, usually taken from the less tender part of the animal, is simmered for hours with aromatic vegetables, red wine or stock. The result is juicy, tender meat that literally melts in your mouth. It is served with puree or polenta.
But when the temperatures drop, it is also the time to enjoy mixed boiled meat, hot and steaming, robust and hearty. And this is known by the many restaurateurs of the area, who can boast of a great tradition linked to the cattle breeding of Alto Oltrepò Pavese, which has made bollito misto a true symbol of the local gastronomic culture. The dish is characterised by its variety of meats, accompanied by a selection of sauces and side dishes that make this dish a complete culinary experience.
The origins of bollito misto date back to ancient times and are closely linked to the local peasant tradition. In the past, this dish was associated with special occasions, such as religious festivities or important family gatherings around this important dish and a hearty table.
The accompaniments
The Oltrepò Pavese also brings its tradition to the accompaniments: the mostarda di Voghera, a spicy gastronomic speciality of the town of Iriense, and the 'peverata', of medieval origins prepared with chilli peppers, capers and anchovies. Mixed boiled meats are also accompanied by vegetables, such as boiled potatoes and spinach in butter.
