A very evocative hiking itinerary that crosses the Oltrepò Pavese following the ancient route of the mules that brought salt from the bad to the Po Valley. The Via del Sale follows a 90 km route through woods, meadows and hills, crossing four provinces: Pavia, Alessandria, Piacenza and Genoa.
The itinerary starts in Varzi in a succession of breathtaking views and interesting historical testimonies. Tombstones commemorating feats of arms and post stations transformed into shelters speak of a past that was one of hard work and adventure. Armies, merchants and pilgrims passed through here.
In spring there are spectacular flowers to admire, a miracle added to the breathtaking views offered by walking along the ridges that lead down to the sea.
The Pavia itinerary
The itinerary in the province of Pavia starts from Varzi and reaches Monte Chiappo. Along the way, through chestnut and fern woods, we come to Monteforte, where there are the ruins of a fortress that once belonged to the Malaspina family, the medieval village of Castellaro and Pian della Mora. Here there is a shelter with tables and benches where you can take a break. The Pavia itinerary continues towards Monte Bagnolo, where there is the Laguione refuge, Colle della Seppa and then Monte Chiappo (1149 m). Monte Chiappo is the highest point of the Oltrepò Pavese, a magical place for the spectacular panorama that embraces the Alps, the sea and the surrounding hills. It is the meeting point of the borders of Piedmont, Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna.
Salt, a precious commodity
The history of the Via del Sale goes back centuries, when the white gold was an essential product for preserving food and for the economy of the regions involved. The main route started in Genoa and followed the course of the river Scrivia; it then went up the Staffora valley to Varzi in the Oltrepò Pavese. From there it continued northwards to other inland areas. Salt was exchanged for other goods and commodities, contributing to the economic development of the regions along the route. Over the centuries, the Via del Sale was guarded and protected to prevent theft and attacks. Castles, fortifications and watchtowers were built along the route to ensure the safety of the salt convoys. The main means of transport were pack animals, such as mules and horses, which carried the sacks of salt along the mountain paths. With the advent of new trade routes and modern means of transport, the importance of the salt road gradually declined over the centuries. Salt began to be transported by sea and by more direct overland routes.
The role of Varzi
As one of the main transit points along the route, Varzi was an important stop for the salt trade from Genoa. It was a centre for the collection and distribution of salt. Loads of goods from Liguria were collected here and then distributed to other places along the route or transported further inland. There was a lively salt market in the village, where traders, transporters and buyers met for commercial transactions. Salt was sold or exchanged for other goods and commodities, boosting the local economy and the commercial vitality of the area.
Varzi also developed supporting infrastructure to facilitate the salt trade. This included warehouses for the temporary storage of salt, accommodation for traders and transporters, and places for animals to rest. The municipality and the surrounding villages were also responsible for the maintenance and safety of the salt road in their area. They kept the roads and bridges in good condition and ensured the viability and safety of the salt convoys that passed through the area, which were often attacked by brigands.
