Once a cheese typical of the whole of the Oltrepò mountains, Nisso Nisso is now produced in the Menconico area, where pastoralism has survived. It is a typical cheese of the peasant tradition, which, in order to minimise food wastage, used the most effective and sometimes strange methods to preserve even the most perishable foods. Nisso is the result of one of these preservation techniques, which allowed the cheese to be used for a longer period of time, giving it special aromas and flavours.
The production
Made from cow's milk, often mixed with sheep's milk, Nisso is appreciated for its unique flavour. It is produced according to traditional methods handed down from generation to generation by the inhabitants of Menconico. The production of this cheese requires great care and attention, as every step of the process is carried out by hand to ensure maximum quality and authenticity. The curd is prepared with milk kept at its original temperature, then animal rennet is added. After being broken with a wooden pin, the curds are placed in cloths which, once tightened, give the cheese a round but imperfect structure. During the ripening period (12 to 24 months), the process of decomposition begins: the cheese is infested by the cheese fly (Piophila casei), which penetrates the moulds and lays its eggs. These become larvae that feed on the cheese, turning it into a kind of cream with a slightly pungent flavour. Some producers grow the larvae in wooden containers and add them to the cheese when it is being made. Nisso has a creamy consistency and an intense flavour, making it ideal as a table cheese or at the end of a meal.
From the traditional to the modern version of Nisso
The traditional version of nisso is now hard to find on the market, as health and hygiene regulations prohibit its sale. There are still a few producers who make it for their own use and in small quantities. The Nisso that can be found on the market has a different process: instead of larvae, it is inoculated with micro-organisms that give the cheese its characteristic spicy flavour.
Nisso di Menconico in the kitchen
The Nisso cream is obtained by macerating the cheese in a little white wine. The cream, which must be stored in a glass jar, takes on a strong, spicy flavour over time. However, the intense and characteristic flavour of Nisso cheese makes it ideal for a variety of occasions. As well as being an ideal table cheese, Nisso can also be appreciated as the protagonist of dishes and culinary preparations that enhance its flavour. One of the most popular recipes is the one for onions stuffed with Nisso, a perfect combination of the sweetness of the onion and the intense flavour of the cheese. Menconico cheese is perfect with jams or caramelised figs.
The right pairing
The combination of Nisso cheese and a full-bodied red wine from the area creates a synergy of flavours that complement each other. Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc, Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc and Buttafuoco dell'Oltrepò Pavese Doc are excellent choices to enhance the unique characteristics of this cheese.
