In the area of Oltrepò Pavese there are still ancient popular traditions that have been handed down from generation to generation. One of them is the "Dinner of the Seven Dishes", a custom that is celebrated every year on 23 December and that has become a deep-rooted symbol of the local culture, so much so that many families keep it alive, albeit in an adapted form, while some renowned restaurants in the area jealously guard its essence.
The meaning of the seven courses
The origins of this thousand-year-old tradition date back to the Middle Ages and are shrouded in a fascination steeped in pagan and Christian symbolism. The "seven-course meal" was not a modest meal, but a sumptuous banquet to prepare the souls for the following day's fast in order to best celebrate the birth of the baby Jesus on Christmas Day. The carefully laid table was enriched with seven symbolic courses representing the hours of darkness of winter, the seven deadly sins and even the holy days when, according to the Bible, God created the universe. Each dish that made up this convivial ritual carried a profound and magical meaning, giving the banquet an aura of mystery and sacredness.
The sacred beginning: the miccone, bread of tradition
The centrepiece of this festive meal was the 'micone', an imposing loaf of bread placed majestically on the table. Behind this loaf lies a legend, handed down by monks, that has its roots in the flight of the baby Jesus to Egypt with Joseph and Mary. The story goes that the baby Jesus was hidden in a jar of bread dough. For the Jews of that time, bread dough did not contain yeast. Incredibly, the dough began to rise, enveloping the child and hiding him from the eyes of his enemies. This extraordinary event made rising an almost sacred phenomenon and led the farmers to jealously guard a part of the dough, called "âl cârsént", which was essential for the next time's bread.
Before rising, the farmers would draw a cross on the dough with the blade of a knife, giving the bread an aura of sanctity. This gesture, made with reverence and devotion, symbolised the divine blessing that would protect all those who would consume the bread.
The table almost as an altar
In the context of the "seven-course meal", the head of the family had the task of placing the micone in the centre of the table, as if the table were almost an altar: during the sumptuous meal, when the seven courses were finished, the bread was broken into small pieces and distributed to all the guests.
The animal offering
But the ritual associated with the miccone did not end with its distribution to the dinner guests. The bread that had not been eaten during the evening of 23 December was kept until St Anthony's Day, 17 January, and then given to the animals in the stable. By offering the bread of the 'seven suppers' it was believed that they too would be protected and preserved for the whole year.
The seven courses
Anchovy, pepper and beetroot salad
Pumpkin pie
Lean-filled onions
Baby strips with garlic
Torta di zucca
Cipolle ripiene di magro
Fasce del Bambino con l’agliata
Codfish with sultanas
Cheese with Mustard
Giasò pears and cooked chestnuts
The symbolism and meanings of the courses
The pumpkin, with its bright yellow colour, evokes the power and energy of the sun. December is the month of the winter solstice, a significant date for pagans who celebrate sol invictus, the day of the invincible sun. sol invictus, il giorno del sole invincibile.
Garlic and onions, on the other hand, are considered elements capable of protecting against evil spirits.
Also rich in symbolism are the 'dâ Bâmbén cun l'âjà' (baby's headbands with garlic), which are lasagnette representing the headbands of the baby Jesus. The dressing, the 'agliata', is made of garlic and walnuts, and the walnuts stand for wealth and fertility. Sultanas cooked with codfish represent a symbol of wealth and abundance, as the custom of putting white grapes on the table on the first day of the year reminds us. Another culinary combination that represents a symbol of fertility is popsicle pears cooked with chestnuts. The shape of the pear, with its reference to the female belly, takes on a special meaning linked to fertility. The presence then of anchovies and cod is not surprising: thanks to the Salt Road, the consumption of fish that could be preserved in salt was extremely widespread throughout the area.
