The charming village of Cegni, in the municipality of Santa Margherita Staffora, is a real historical jewel that fascinates visitors with its timeless beauty. The origins of Cegni date back to Roman times, but the village reached its maximum importance during the medieval period. We are in the heart of the Alto Oltrepò, at an altitude of about 800 metres, in an area clinging to the slopes of Mount Bogleglio.
The itinerary
Cegni is surrounded by an extraordinary natural environment that offers many opportunities for outdoor activities and excursions. In autumn, the enchanting loop trail is ideal for hiking. A succession of pine and beech forests and a unique biodiversity. The route starts about 9 kilometres from Cegni, at Pratone dei Milanesi, in the hamlet of Negruzzo. From here it follows a mule-track that climbs to the Colle della Seppa, 1,500 metres above sea level, where it crosses the Via del Sale. A mule track through woods and fantastic views leads to Monte Garavè and then down to the Passo della Mula. Once you are at the foot of Monte Rotondo, keep to the right and follow a flat path that takes you into a beech wood. Crossing the Pian dell'Armà you reach the top of Monte Chiappo. To return, go back along the last stretch and then turn right along the ski slope and take the SP 90 until you reach Pratone dei Milanesi.
Mount Garavé and Mount Chiappo
Mount Garavè (1549 m.) is part of the northward extension, starting from Mount Chiappo, of the Mount Antola group, on the watershed separating the province of Alessandria from that of Pavia. Mount Chiappo (1669 m.) also belongs to the same group. Its summit marks the border between Piacenza, Alessandria and Pavia.
Cegni, the fascination of the double carnival
There are two carnivals in Cegni. One in winter and the other in summer. The winter carnival, usually held in February, is a traditional event during which the village comes alive with bright colours, elaborate costumes and contagious gaiety. The streets of Cegni become the stage for parades of allegorical floats, groups of masks and musical performances. But there is a ritual that makes this carnival special and that is repeated every summer.
The White Carnival, so called because it is more sober than the traditional one, takes place on 16 August. It is one of the most important events of the summer in Alto Oltrepò Pavese. As in the winter edition, the procession through the narrow streets of the village and the dances that accompany the wedding of the "Ugly Woman" and the "Poor Woman" are repeated. The choreography includes the 'dances of the four provinces' to the sound of fifes and accordions. The highlight of the event is the wedding performance, preceded by the courtship dance. The day's festivities culminate with dinner, always ravioli, and the evening dance.
The pipe, the ancient instrument of Cegni
For the people of Cegni, the pipe is much more than a musical instrument. It is a link with its historical and cultural roots. This ancient musical instrument can still be heard in the cobbled streets during traditional festivals. Its cheerful and engaging melodies have accompanied festivals, weddings and carnivals for centuries, becoming an irreplaceable element of Cegni's musical tradition.
Cegni's gabbiola, a delight for the palate
The culinary highlight of Cegni is the gabbiola, a salted meat that takes its name from the small cage, "gabiòa" or "gabiòla" in dialect, that used to be hung in the house or cellar to protect its contents. An absolute must for gourmets, Gabbiola di Cegni has ancient origins, rooted in the farming and pork butchering culture of the village. It is a salted meat made from the leg of the Piedmontese Fassona breed, characterised by its spicy flavour and long seasoning. The production takes place in the small village of Cegni: along the ancient Via del Sale, which linked Liguria to Pavia, merchants transported salt and spices, but also ideas and recipes for the production of cured meats.